Mustard Eggs!

Mustard eggs

Having purchased a bottle of Dijon honey mustard at the supermarket, I decided to try Rumpoldt's fried hard-boiled eggs with mustard recipe again.  My thought was that using a sweeter, less harsh mustard would eliminate the unpleasantness of mustard bite and create a tasty dish while still giving the eggs an interesting flavor.  A photograph of the cooked eggs appears beside this post; as usual, click on it for a larger version.

The end result was successful!  The honey in the mustard almost, but not quite, drowned out the mustard bite to produce an interesting dish.  I sliced up two very lightly salted hard-boiled eggs before frying them, and added about a teaspoon and one-half honey mustard (compare the 5 eggs and 3-4 tablespoons of mustard in Volker Bach's redaction of the Rumpoldt recipe in Plain Fare), and those seemed to be appropriate amounts, at least to my taste.

Perhaps my final experiment along these lines should be to make the eggs using homemade honey mustard based on a (roughly) period recipe.  Plain Fare gives a recipe from the Liber de Coquina, which dates to the fourteenth century CE.  (Rumpoldt's book, in contrast, was published toward the very end of the sixteenth century CE.) A translation of the recipe from Liber de Coquina, and Bach's comments, follow:

Mustard can be made from mustardseed alone, or from rocket.  And it can be seasoned with honey or with sapa (reduced grape must). It is bound either with cooked egg yolk or with sugar. If it is to go with fish, distemper it with vinegar, if with meat, use verjuice.  This is better. 

• 4 tbsp mustardseed flour
• 1/3 cup honey
• 1 cooked egg yolk or 1 tbsp sugar
• vinegar or verjuice to taste
• cinnamon or cassia buds (optional)

(Says Mr. Bach:)  This is not so much a recipe as a set of general guidelines. Since mustard has good keeping qualities, you can easily make a batch of whatever combination appeals to you and bring it to the event, though this sauce is also easily put together on the spot. The basic principle is to mix mustardseed flour with honey (or reduced grape must, if you can get it) and thicken this sauce base with cooked egg yolk or sugar.  Once you need the sauce, you add vinegar or verjuice to taste.

Bach redacts the Liber recipe as combining "mustardseed flour" (i.e., dry mustard) with 1/3 cup honey, binding it with cooked egg yolk or a bit of sugar, and adding a bit of cinnamon or cassia buds to season it.  It would be interesting to try the egg recipe with this type of mustard instead of a modern pre-made mustard, and I may yet do so.  Watch this space!

 

NOTE:  (9/5/2022)  Amazon sells several brands of reduced or cooked grape must, including one made by a family-owned Italian company; it runs about $15 USD for an 8-ounce bottle.  Bach recommends using cooked grape must (unprocessed grape juice left over from the wine making process that is boiled down until it becomes thick) in this honey mustard recipe.  I may decide to purchase some and use it to make my own mustard for a third try at the recipe.